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Tenggol is a small island (only about 3km in length) about 30 minutes by boat from Dungun, Terengganu. Since July this year, divers have reported consistent sightings of four Whalesharks (
Rhincodon typus) around the island and a few Manta rays (
Manta birostris) too. Almost every weekend the three resorts on the island were packed with divers hoping to see these creatures.
In my twelve years of diving, I have never seen a Whaleshark. Manta yes, Thresher shark yes but not this shark, the largest of all fish species. I had three PADI Open Water Diver and a Rescue Diver students to complete their certification last August 2009 and managed to, err, gently persuade them to follow me to Tenggol. We got to the island and quickly got through the training dives, assisted by four of my Divemaster trainees. Then, it was time to set up my trusty ol' Nikon D70 in its underwater casing and out to catch a glimpse of the shark. I cannot even remember when was the last time I went out diving feeling very nervous and very excited at the same time. The last time was probably during my very first Open Water experience with Ejam Shair, my PADI instructor that time. Why? Because just about every diver I know have already seen the Whaleshark in Tenggol and have bragged so much about it and there I was, making my 600th dive or so and still have not met this famous
filter feeder. I hate to admit it but I was nervous, in a good way somewhat.
Azrul of Discovery Divers led the dive at Teluk Nakhoda. We went in, head out into the greenish, plankton-filled water and kept our depth around 15 meters or so. Visibility was just about 5 to 7 meters and there was nothing to see. We just followed Azrul and kept looking left, right, above and under for the guy. My D70 was set on Aperture-priority @ F/5.6, the Ikelite DS125 strobe already fully charged and on standby and my fingers never left the shutter button. We continued swimming, everybody filled of anticipation.
Then it came. I think I saw it first, swimming about five meters underneath me and coming from behind. I banged my steel pointer furiously on the tank but could not make any sound (I later realized that the tank had a plastic mesh wrapped over it and I was banging on plastic, haha). Instantly, I switched to flutter kick and furiously swam to keep up with the shark. It swam ever so gracefully but those massive tail fin moved it so fast in the water that I could only followed it for less than five minutes. It was definitely a juvenile since the upper tail fin was much larger than the lower one and was about seven meters long. The up-close-and-personal experience was exhilarating. This first encounter only lasted no more than five minutes and it quickly disappeared into the murky water. But that five minutes was enough for me to get three shots off my Nikon. I had proof.

Osman, my Divemaster trainee, with his Apollo Bio-fins was able to get underneath the shark for this photo.
In the next four days, I went to the same spot every evening around 5.30pm and was able to meet the same young shark four more times, sometimes several appearances during the same dive. We even made one morning dive at Teluk Nakhoda and saw it there too so it was probably hanging out there most of the time. Out of these encounters, here are some of the best pictures.

Azhar, my other Divemaster trainee, was using a borrowed Canon G10 to get some videos of the shark.

This photo was colour-corrected in Photoshop. The markings on the Whaleshark body is unique to each individual shark and can be used to identify the animal.


I left Tenggol after six long days there with three PADI Open Water, one PADI Rescue and one PADI Advanced Open Water Diver certifications but most importantly, I brought back memories (and proof) of my first encounters with a young
Rhincodon typus. Such encounters pull everything back into perspective. This is what diving is all about - being able to go underwater and meet such wonderful creatures that God has created for us to appreciate, so that we can acknowledge His omnipotence. As a Muslim, we say
Alhamdulillah to Him.
Labels: tenggol, terengganu, whaleshark